Dhaka

Well I promised a daily post once I returned to Dhaka but that hasn't happened and as always there are reasons/excuses. First I was overwhelmed by the impact of the city on my senses. How to adjust to the noise, traffic, masses of people and so on. And then I was ambushed by all of the little germs of Dhaka, just waiting for me to arrive and infect me. Fortunately I'm recovering but I've felt pretty awful for most of the past week.

A few things today and then tomorrow I will begin properly.

I'm staying at the Ambrosia, an old-fashioned guesthouse in Dhanmondi, that has seen better days but remains gracious and popular among Bedeshis. The guys that work here are helpful and obliging, the food is excellent and the rooms quite spacious and clean. What more could you ask for?

I arrived on Saturday. On Sunday I went for a walk to Dhanmondi Lake, which provides a nice shaded walk during the day. I hadn't been to this particular part before and I was taking photographs. Suddenly a man jumped up and started shouting at me in Bengali. I looked around and realised there was an army presence as well as police presence and the roads were barricaded. I had stumbled on the edge of the area where Sheikh Hasina lives and thus out of bound to the likes of me.

Today I was invited to the opening of Shahidul Alam's photographic exhibition Cross Fire, which would be held in conjunction with the launch of the new Pathshala: South Asian Media Academy being built in the Drik compound. Aswe approached Drik we noticed a fairly large crowd milling outside the gates and then we noticed the 50 or 60 police standing in front of the gates. Nobody was allowed in so the inauguration occurred in the street. It seems that somebody in the government had taken exception to the topic and ordered its closure. Foolish move given the amout of press coverage, the number of Bedeshis there and the probable arrival of the Dutch Ambassador. After a whil it was clear the police would not budge and although storming the barricades was jokingly referred to nobody was in the mood to provoke the police, so we left.

It's interesting that in one week I've had two brushes with the police. This needs to be reflected upon.

Why is Crossfire such a sensitive issue? The term refers to the announcemnts in the press that such and such was 'killed in the crossfire' as the RAB (Rapid Action Battalion, all dressed in black and licensed to kill) fight he goondas and others. Shahidul can be provocative but without seeing the images its difficult to know why the authorities are so upset. Hopefully it will be open tomorrow and then I can comment further. And yes, the RAB are pretty scary!

Finally, there are more political posters up than ever before (as far as I can recall) particularly from the AL; images of Sheikh Mujiba Rahman and Sheikh Hasina striking herois poses. Very redolent of soviet socialist art, Mao and the cult of personality. I have to learn to upload photos.